Bail Perfect Centering Tool - short version (1080p)

This is a bale centering tool. It was designed to help us make sure that the center line of the stone is lined up with a bale so that it hangs symmetrically and looks correct. In the kit are a bale centering tool itself, a pen for marking, extra rubber bands, a practice tool, and then a set of instructions.

The tool works like this. You place two fingers on these two lips here, place your thumb back here, two fingers here, flip it over, drop the bezel that you want to mark in against the fixed jaw, which is at this end. Take the sliding jaw, which is down here, and play with it back and forth.

It will center the piece in line. You flip it over, apply a slight pressure, then you can mark the center line. And when you get done with that, you should have on the center of that piece.

Keep in mind that if your back plate is not always lined, is not always the same size, or your bezel isn't perfectly uniform, that you'll still end up with the center. It's just that it might look unusual on the back. You can also use this tool.

Remember, you'll set it against, underneath the fixed jaw. Slap it around a few times, flip it over, make your marks. There's room for five of them there.

Then when you're making your ring, you can flip that around. Now you have lines the other direction, orientation lines for when you're deciding where to put your, your ring shank. That way it won't be twisted and too far off either side.

I got interrupted when I was working on this video, and I picked up that bezel and, and with the cross marks on it. So I went ahead and made it into a ring. And so that ring came out looking like this, after aligning on those.

Looks really nice. It fit just perfectly on the center. So I went ahead and made another one up really quick.

And when it was marked up, it didn't look like it was marked on the dead center. But when you turn it over and you look at it here, you can see that the bail is lined up with the center of the stone. And that was the purpose of the tool.

(0:02) This is a spider-roll-down tool. You can see some instructions on the front, and I'll show you how to use the tool.
(0:04) spider-roll-down-tool.com
(0:05) Typically when I open them up, it's easy to just decorate your knife and slice down between the rods, all the way to the end and around the ends.
(0:08) It's a little bit difficult to unwrap the razor knife, but it sure will.
(0:10) Once you do get the wrappers off, you'll end up with four pieces that look kind of like this.
(0:13) Notice that they have a 90-degree angle, a 45-degree angle, and a 22.5.
(0:15) Or pretty close to that.
(0:18) To assemble the tool, you just lift the rods in a bowl, lay them, and fit them in one of them.
(0:19) It's not a specific sequence.
(0:20) Then you'll be able to re-serialize them and clean them off, and as time goes on, you may need to clean them up once in a while by painting them with some seal oil or a piece of sandpaper.
(0:24) And, uh, not only that, but also by wiping them away.
(0:26) And if you're using these, this will turn black. That's exactly what you want to happen.
(0:28) Because that black is just a layer of carbon. The layer of carbon on there is going to be very difficult to do the sawing of something by accident.
(0:32) The various angles are really various kinds of projects.
(0:33) Let me show you a few.
(0:34) You'll want to use the appropriate end of the spider to hold the pieces in place, depending on the angle that you need to hold.
(0:37) For example, this particular piece, you're going to need to have this dead side against the back plate, in order for that to saw correctly.
(0:40) So we'll go under something like this, with this spider leg touching right on that particular spot, and hold it there in the sawing process.
(0:44) We're going to put our spider leg up at a low angle on it so that we can get our spider leg at the right angle to touch as much as possible on that side of the way.
(0:48) Here are a few pictures to correct that up for this application.
(0:49) Notice the angles. Notice that the blade is transferred from the cube to the bale.
(0:52) So now we'll try this way with the spider.
I'm going to start leaning back so the blade goes away.
(0:53) I'm going to try to go from side to side. I'm going to go around in front of that bale.

(0:55) I'm going to watch the spider flow from the bales to the back plate.
(0:56) When it does, I'm going to stop, and that means my bale is going to hold that.
(0:59) As soon as it flows, there it is.
(1:00) I'm going to go ahead now, back off the camera so that you can see how we're going to keep ourselves from getting burned.
(1:03) We're going to grab the bale, we're going to spin that around and drop it into the water.
(1:06) And that'll let it cool.
(1:07) Then I'll get my piece in the pickling water and cool it off.
(1:08) And that's it for my application. Let's do another.
(1:10) I was putting these screws on earlier.
(1:11) I just had them on there so I could put this over here.
(1:13) I don't know what my position is.
It wasn't my position.
(1:15) I don't want to lose time, so I'm going to just use the spider to hold it down right there.
(1:44) Alright, so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to get this blade here.
(1:46) I'm going to lean at an angle.
(1:49) I'm almost over the top of the plate.
(1:50) So, holding that with my wheels is probably still one of the best methods I would use.
(1:53) But I just can't help it.
(1:59) I just need to stand up and hold it with my hands like that.
(2:01) I'm going to try it out.
(2:06) I'm going to do it right here.
(2:37) I'm going to do it a little bit.
(2:38) I'm going to have to cast it away from here.
(2:39) I'm going to drop it on the floor a little bit.
(2:43) I'm going to flip it around.
(3:30) Uh...
(3:31) Alright, again, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire,
(4:50) up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up
(4:51) the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up
(4:51) the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up
(4:52) fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the fire, pick up the

It's mini spider time.
7 easier ways than using a third hand
for when the third hand just doesn't cut it.
The spider mini is for those tiny projects
you can put on quarter inch Shanks without
tweezers holding, taking the heat away.
Keep those ring Shanks where you want them.
Keep
it centered.
Makes those studs stay where you place them.
Make complex assemblies like
flowers, leaves, and a Hummingbird all
together.
Easy for holding bales in place where you solder
them.
Even let you put balls on top of something
when you don't ring. Hold
lots of pieces in place all at once.

(0:00) This is an ergonomic bezel pusher and burnisher set. It has a rotating mount
(0:07) and two very unique pushing tools. They are made of plastic so they don't harm
(0:14) your stone in the event that you slip. We use a rotating mount that has a thermal lock on it
(0:20) in order to hold the pendant in place so you don't have to force it down or try to hold it
(0:24) with some other tool. This makes it much, much easier to use and a lot easier on your hands.
(0:30) It was designed specifically for people with arthritis and hand problems, but it works really
(0:35) well for everybody. Please check out our website at silversmithingclass.com for longer videos
(0:40) and full usage. Thank you

This 2.5-inch biodegradable plastic rotator mount makes setting bigger cabochons way easier on your hands. It's great for jewelry making, silversmithing, and metalsmithing. The heat-activated thermoplastic holds your stone securely in place while you work on the bezel. Comes with an adhesive stick, ring insert, and hole cutter. Made in the USA — a nice ergonomic upgrade if you want more precision without the hand strain

This Jewelry stone setting tool makes it much, much easier to use and a
lot easier on your hands.
It was designed specifically for people
with arthritis and hand problems.

Speaker 0: Our grid soldering boards are available in four by four, six by six, eight by eight, and twelve by 12. We also have them available as a lazy Susan format. We also have them available as a bundle. Here are some examples of our eight-by-eight grid board being used to create individual letters. The grid makes it possible to get 93 corners without penning or staking.

It also allows you to manipulate the components while soldering. The whole video of making this bracelet using the grid soldering board and the superior tripod can be seen on YouTube. Just search for the grid soldering board. Our asbestos free flame resistant, non combustible hard soldering boards, and grid boards can withstand up to 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit. They provide excellent heat reflection and rapid cooldown.

They will not flake. They can be sanded, cut, carved, drilled, shaped for holding parts. They can be used with metal clays and in kilns as shelves up to 927 degrees centigrade. Our boards can be used with pins to locate parts being soldered, and they are a great way to protect your workbench. Many professionals use this type of board for production soldering.

They work best for silver soldering. Thanks for checking us out.

Speaker 0: This is our Lazy Sue grid soldering board. It's really great for preventing you from having to get your hands in all kinds of weird positions. For example, I can place things where I want them all from one all from one side. I don't have to be back back and forth. I can just rotate her out a little bit, get them where I want without them falling off every time I move the plate.

For example, placing a lot of balls can be tedious trying to get them to touch each other with your hands in ununique positions. Or if you can just lay them all into place and just rotate it around, it works really, really nicely. The rotating grid board also allows you to hold your torch. The rotating grid board also helps you if you wanna keep soldering things without hitting the bezel and keeping them pretty centered When you're soldering and holding your torch like that holding your torch like this rather than like this makes it so you don't have to support your whole arm. So by being able to hold that like that and turn this, I can keep the focal point of the torch right where I want it.

Much easier.

This solder board was specifically designed for the Jewelry and Silversmithing industry. With heat reflection and Rapid cooldown, the primary concern. They will not flake. They can be sanded cut carved drilled or shape for only parts that can
00:45 be used with metal Clays and in Kilns as shells up to 927 degrees Centigrade. Our boards can be used with pins to locate Parts being soldered.
00:54 And they're a great way to protect your workbench many professionals use this type of board for production soldering. They work
01:05 best for silver soldering. Thanks for checking us out.

Speaker 0: This is a flat maker ring clamp at Mark, and we're gonna set it in the ring clamp very, very lightly. So we've got it held in place. Then we're gonna turn it over and slide it to the point on the gauge here. These gauge does not go over we wanted. This is a 10 gauge, so we're going to put this in the 10 gauge slot, feel around for it, and fill it until this doesn't rock.
We'll be against them. See, we're starting to get a little flat spot on it as such. The tools we used here were the ring flap maker, the bail centering tool. Gona drop the ring in there. We'll snug it up. Came out Great